Cambridge University releases Everest mountaineer George Mallory's letters

  • Published
1924 Everest teamImage source, Getty/Royal Geographical Society
Image caption,
The 1924 Mount Everest team, left to right (back row): Irvine, Mallory, Norton, Odell and MacDonald. Left to right (front row): Shebbeare, Bruce, Somervell and Beetham

The final words of mountaineer George Mallory to his wife are among letters made public for the first time, marking his death 100 years ago on Everest.

Mallory studied history at Magdalene College at the University of Cambridge between 1905 and 1909, and the college has now digitised his writings.

Born in Mobberley, Cheshire, he died during an Everest expedition in 1924 but his body was not found until 1999.

Letters found in his jacket pocket are among the collection.

Mallory is known for apparently replying "because it's there", when asked by a reporter why he wanted to climb Everest.

There is still debate about whether he and his climbing partner Andrew Irvine did in fact make it to the top of the mountain.

Image source, Getty/Royal Geographical Society
Image caption,
George Mallory had studied history at Cambridge University in the early 20th Century

Mallory's body was not discovered until 75 years after he went missing - the body of fellow climber Irvine has never been found.

A BBC World Service news report from 4 May 1999 stated: "An expedition to Mount Everest has found the body of the famous British climber, George Mallory, who disappeared 75 years ago a short distance from the summit.

"The team said they spotted the corpse protruding from the snow about 600m below the top of Everest.

"Mallory's name tag was on the clothing and a rope was still round his waist."

The mountaineer's letters have now been digitised and are free to view on the Magdalene College website.

The bulk of the collection is made up of correspondence between Mallory and his wife Ruth from the time of their engagement in 1914 until his death on Everest in 1924.

Among them is the very last letter he wrote to her before his final Everest summit attempt.

Image source, Master and Fellows of Magdalene College
Image caption,
George Mallory's last letter to his wife was written on 27 May 1924

"Darling I wish you the best I can - that your anxiety will be at an end before you get this - with the best news, which will also be the quickest.

"It is 50-to-one against us but we'll have a whack yet and do ourselves proud. Great love to you. Ever your loving, George," he wrote.

The letters also include his writings about his first reconnaissance mission to Everest in 1921 and his second mission to scope out the mountain.

This mission ended in disaster when eight Sherpas were swept off the mountain and killed in an avalanche, for which Mallory blamed himself.

Magdalene College archivist, Katy Green, said: "It has been a real pleasure to work with these letters.

"Whether it's George's wife Ruth writing about how she was posting him plum cakes and a grapefruit to the trenches - he said the grapefruit wasn't ripe enough - or whether it's his poignant last letter where he says the chances of scaling Everest are '50-to-one against us', they offer a fascinating insight into the life of this famous Magdalene alumnus."

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